Friday, June 29, 2012

France avec la famille…


We have just returned from our summer holiday to the South of France with the family. My Mum & Dad are over from NZ and we went with them and my Uncle and his girlfriend for a week to the Minerve and Aude regions halfway between Narbonne and Carcassonne.

We stayed in the quaint village of La Redorte set amongst wine groves at a lovely gite called Villa Camellia that is owned by the family of friends of ours. The village has all the usual facilities and also had the added attraction of being adjacent to the Canal du Midi (an impressive 17th C construction that joined with other canals to provide a link between the Mediterranean and the Bay of Biscay.)

Overlooking the ‘Port of La Redorte’ was a restaurant that benefited by the view and the passing trade from the various barges and river cruisers on the canal. The eatery Le Rivassel capitalised on the tourists by putting on an energetic and entertaining final evening for us with Brazilian night complete with exotic dancers.

We hired a couple of cars for the six of us and experienced our first driving trauma soon after picking them up as we got separated on the motorway system as I failed to follow the sat-nav properly. Luckily both parties managed to navigate their way to the village separately. We only had minor navigational issues after that due to sat-nav errors or miss-read maps.

Sunday – We drove out to the historic Cather town of Minerve that sits attractively on a spit of land between two gorges (one called Brian). It has some lovely craft shops and the route there goes through some spectacular countryside.

Monday – This day we decided to brave the tourist hot-spot of Carcassonne, a large walled town that had been restored to its former glory complete with impressive Basilica and Chateaux. This is a bustling place full of noise, sights and scents to entertain for hours, and we wandered around missing the occasional shower until we finished up in a square full of restaurants where some of us partook of the local speciality Cassoulet (a stew of haricot beans, sausage, and duck or goose).

Tuesday – Close by is the small and perfectly formed little historic village of Caunes-Minervois in a town known for its marble, statues of which could be seen in the park in the distinctive pink and white colouring. There is a cute Abbey in the village that has layers of historical construction on view along with a rather unusual art exhibition. The old town was well worth a wander around and we ended up in a small square where we had a picnic lunch next to a marble fountain and under the shade of two enormous plane trees. We made a small detour to the now closed Marble Quarry before we continued on to our next destination.

Lastours is a small place in the mountains that is known for the ruins of four castles, Les Quatre Chateaux, which sit above it in the middle of rugged terrain and provide a dramatic view of their crumbling walls and turrets.
 
On Wednesday Mum & Dad stayed at the gite expecting a visit from friends that did not materialise as the rest of us took one car and went out for the day. Our first stop was Lagrasse, another old town full of character and crumbling walls. In the small town centre was a traditional covered market square and across the pretty river was an impressive abbey. 

After lunch we took a very winding and vertiginous road out to one of the most impressive of the Cather castles - Peyrepertuse Chateaux – sitting as it does at the top of a mountain ridge where it can dominate two valleys and, along with its partner castle on the other side of one of the valleys, protect the approaches from the Spanish boarder. There is a torturous road part way up the mountain to a car park where you can then continue on foot up the steep path to the castle itself and there get the most amazing views.

Thursday we ventured further abroad to visit the very grand and popular Abbaye Fontfroide where we had a guided tour around the wonderful old monastery, church and rose gardens. 

We then went on until we reached the coast and the little fishing village of Bages, where we had a delightful authentic French lunch at the tiny Les Jardins de Bages cafe.

On Friday we dropped Mum & Dad off at Narbonne to catch the train to Barcelona where they joined a bus tour around Spain for the next week. After we returned to the gite the four of us remaining went out first to Conques-sur-Orbiel – a case of mistaken identity, and then on to the town of books Montolieu renowned for its second-hand book stores. Lastly we went up probably the most frightening road yet to Cubservies there to see the cascades, supposedly some of the tallest falls in the country.

And as mentioned earlier, our evening, and holiday, ended with the exotic Brazilian rhythms of the Latin band and swaying hips of the scantily dancers down beside the canal.

It was a great break I think for all of us and we would thoroughly recommend the area, the gite in particular, for a family holiday.

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