11th
Dec - Departed London in the evening after
taking a leisurely drive via a Carluccio restaurant at Walton on Thames and
spending a relaxing while in the airport lounge taking onboard some ‘liquid
personality’ with a brief stop in Singapore to change planes (first leg on the
A380 double-decker and the second on a 777), we arrived in Christchurch on the 13th
Dec in the morning and met mum who had flown down from Auckland.
13th
Dec
-
First
we picked up transport – a wonderful, huge, white Toyota Highlander with room
enough for all of us plus our luggage (once I had determined the best way to
fit it in – Tetris-like). I was very sad to return this vehicle at the end of
our travels and return to the Vauxhall Meriva ‘Pope-Mobile’.
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We
spent the day in Christchurch, a place is still in ruins with empty lots,
rubble strewn areas, and only a few signs of re-building even after four years
from the big quake. The historic tram was now running a full circuit and the
only healthy looking trading areas seemed to be the pretty New Regent Street
(where the tram runs between a row of older shops – there is a cool steampunk
shop called the Clockwork Emporium & Cafe), and the funky Re:START Mall
which is built out of converted shipping containers. The old cathedral is still
in a sad state of partial collapse but the new Cardboard Cathedral was fabulous
to see.
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We
stayed at the conveniently located Airport Gateway Motor Lodge in a family
unit. Sue and I in one room, mum and Deb sharing another twin room and Jamie in
the lounge area (this was pretty much the standard configuration during our
journey.
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Sue
and I picked Jamie up from the airport in the early hours as he was flying in
from Sydney after spending a few days there and in Canberra with friends.
14th
Dec
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We
travelled to Queenstown via Lake Tekapo with views of Mt Cook (where we had a
picnic lunch near the pretty lakeside church and dog statue) and Lake Pukaki
with its pale ice blue waters.
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We
arrived in time to take a ride across the lake on the fabulous old steamer
Earnslaw in the sunshine, enjoying the views, the onboard bar and the live
piano music.
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We
stayed at the quaint Settlers Cottage Motel in the nearby picturesque gold
mining town Arrowtown and we went out for an evening meal at The Fork and Tap (they
forgot Jamie and my meals which came late). Here Debbie and Jamie dragged us
into a birthday celebration being held by a few locals and Sue impressed them
by downing a pint after losing (she says wining) a drinking completion. The bar
staff became a little unhappy with the rowdy group (especially when one girl
used toilet paper to redecorate the ladies loos) and we excused ourselves when
they started to suggest we go back to theirs to share a bottle of whiskey.
15th
Dec
-
We
went back into Queenstown in the morning and arranged to go on the Shotover Jetboat in the morning. It was a fabulous trip for the four of us (mum deciding
to watch from the shore) where we shot through steep gorges inches from the
rock face and got soaked by the 360 degree spins. We also had an entertaining
driver who pointed out the Remarkable ranges that were one of the backdrops for
Lord of the Rings. We then headed off towards Franz Josef stopping at the
Kawarau Bridge where AJ Hackett started his first Bungy experience and where
Deb and Jamie jumped off the bridge (Jamie face first into the water giving
himself temporary bloodshot eyes). We travelled on via Lake Hawea (wonderful
reflections of the mountains in the mirror like water), had a fabulous lunch at
the gorgeous Cardrona Hotel sitting out in their garden before continuing to Lake Wanaka and through the dramatic Haast Pass.
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We
stayed at the modern and well appointed Aspen Court Franz Josef in the shadow
of the mist shrouded mountains and had a lovely Thai evening meal at the KingTiger down the road.
16th
Dec
-
In
the morning we drove to the Franz Josef Glacier car park and walked towards the
glacier. Sue and I had been here many years before and we were surprised by how
much the ice had receded up the valley. Where you used to be able to touch the
face of the glacier you are now prevented from getting close (apparently some
tourists had died, crushed by falling ice). Still the views were amazing and
the heat in the sunshine was a bonus for what is often regarded as the wettest
coast of New Zealand. There were plenty of helicopters taking adventurous types
up to the top of the glacier to walk in the ice and snow.
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We
travelled on towards Hanmer Springs stopping for lunch at Café 39 in the pretty
town of Hokitika (cafés have sprung up all over the country and often provide delicious
and interesting fare) then detouring to visit the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki
(dramatic layered rock eroded into fantastical shapes by the actions of the
sea).
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We
met up with Steve and Samantha at the Monteith’s Brewery Bar (that Steve manages) for a slap up meal and a catch up (Jamie managed to
finish the ½ kilo steak where Steve did not quite manage).
17th
Dec
-
We
went for a bathe in the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools (an unusual experience of
trying to relax, especially when a photographer waded out into the water asking
if we wanted pictures taking). At the I-Site tourist centre we went to book for
the whale watching and could only get tickets for first thing the next morning.
Before we left we caught up with Steve again for brunch before travelling on to
Kaikoura.
-
We
stayed at The Seahorse (private house accommodation). When we arrived it was
not ready for us so we rang the housekeeper and went out into town for a while.
We went to the supermarket and then stopped to watch cormorants (shags) and
seals at the end of the peninsula. By now the weather was turning bad and so we
returned to the house for a relaxing evening. The accommodation seemed to be
circa 1970 but the house was comfortable (the shower weak and feeble) and it
was nice for us to have more space to ourselves.
18th
Dec
-
We
had an early sailing with the Whale Watch Company from their (Whale Way Station
– offices in an old railway station). It was a grey, dismal morning but we did
see four whales (well most of us saw the three closest ones – apart from Sue
who was fiddling with the camera on the phone. Jamie and I saw a distant fourth
one). We also saw dolphins, a seal and albatross along with various other
birds. I was feeling a bit queasy as we neared the end of the journey so we had
a coffee and muffin at the nearby Allure Café (muffins seem to be a staple of
NZ cafes and often come warm with a pat of butter).
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We
went back to the local I-Site having already decided that we did not want to go
back out onto the water to swim with the dolphins, to see what else we could do.
We found a local river rafting company willing to take us out. Mum opted not to
join us so we dropped her off at the house and then drove towards the Clarence
River Bridge. On the way we stopped to look at the seal nursery by the side of
the rode enjoying the antics of the baby seals as they frolicked about on the
rocks below us.
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The
Clarence River Rafting company are run by a lovely bunch of people and we had a
raft to ourselves with our friendly guide Jordan. The tone for the afternoon
was set by our experience of trying to get into the wetsuits (one size fits
no-body) and we had a good giggle on our journey down the river to the sea. Our
guide got Jamie to jump of rocks (face planting painfully after a somersault)
and all of us to free-ride down rapids. He also provided a stop for tea and
biscuits and gave us plenty of local knowledge of the river and surroundings.
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We
were tired and hungry when we arrived back and so after showers and a few
nibbles we went to The Pier Hotel for dinner where Deb enjoyed half a crayfish
as much as the rest of us enjoyed our food.
19th
Dec
-
On
the next morning we headed off towards Picton stopping briefly in Blenheim for
lunch at the Café Home.
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We
had booked a wine tour with Sounds Connection and were being picked up from our
hotel at 1:15, so we checked into the Picton Beachcomber Inn and had enough
time to unpack before the minibus arrived.
-
The
driver was a lovely entertaining guy who gave us an informative talk as we
travelled back towards Blenheim. Our first stop was at Hunter’s where we tried
a wide range of wines (mostly whites), after this Jamie and I joined a few beer
drinkers at Moa Brewing (a lovely range of beers poured by a relaxed German
brewer) and the girls continued on to another vineyard. We then regrouped and
went onto Framingham Wines where they have a lovely courtyard and attractive
tasting room (good wines too). Our last wine stop was Drylands (a much bigger
affair that include distinguished labels such as Selaks, Nobilo and Kim
Crawford). Our return journey included a tasting stop of a different kind,
chocolate maker Makana, and yummy it was too.
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We
returned to Picton and the hotel (which had a lovely view over the harbour
where we could watch the ferries come and go). Dinner was at the DA’s Barn
which was a quirky place full of local characters, busy and happy people
enjoying the offbeat musical entertainment. Gina and her staff were friendly
and attentive busily keeping the large number of patrons happy. The food was
substantial and hearty and the beer and wine cold and refreshing. A very
entertaining evening.
20th
Dec
-
We
went to see if we could check into our rooms at the Shepherds Arms Hotel (a
place Sue and I stayed in many years before in the lovely Tinakori Road area of
town with a village feel to it) but they were not ready, so we walked up to the
Botanic Gardens and around the area before having a bite to eat in the hotel
bar.
-
Jamie
and I headed off to our pre-booked Weta Cave Workshop tour (where they make
props for movies such as the Lord of the Rings). The girls headed into town to
do some shopping but when we returned we found them in a bar called the
Foxglove on the waterfront (one of the great things about Wellington is that
the centre is compact and it is easy to get around). After we joined them for a
drink here we moved on to Mac’s Brewbar where I had a Beer Tasting Platter of
six of their finest.
-
Later
we continued on to Cuba Street, the eating, drinking and entertainment centre
of the city stopping briefly at the Plum Café for a refill before having dinner
at the Duke Carvell’s Swan Lane Emporium (a wonderfully hip and atmospheric place
with a delicious menu. We had a selection of small plates including the
dramatic Flaming Ouzo Cheese and the NZ speciality Creamed Paua). Suitably
fortified we continued up the street until we came to the lively Laundry lounge
and bar where we enjoyed a few cocktails and listened to some live music before
abandoning Jamie and returning back to the hotel quite late. The hotel was
basic though Sue and I had a suite with a four poster bed but we were out for
the count as soon as our heads hit the pillows.
21st
Dec
-
We
were a bit worried that Jamie might not find his way home but in the morning it
was Mum and Deb that we couldn’t find (they were in a café across the road).
-
After
breakfast we checked out and went back into town to look around the Te Papa Museum and then to ride the Wellington Cable Car to a vantage point near to the
Botanic Gardens.
-
We
had a delightful lunch in the Canteen in Bond Street, a lovely quaint and
painfully trendy little café with great food and restful atmosphere.
-
We
travelled to Napier and to our second home-let accommodation called Deco by theSea, in Westshore. This was a lovely place decorated with period furniture and
in a peaceful road close to the sea.
-
Sue,
Deb and I went shopping for supplies for a BBQ we were planning for the
following evening and took the scenic route home through the main street of
Napier and around the bluff.
-
Here
we arranged to meet a couple of Deb’s friends and visited their lovely house on
the top of the hill for a catch up. On our way home we stopped at the Hawkes Bay Seafoods fish and chips (just in time before they closed). It seemed that
the shop had cooked excess food so we ended up with a mountain of fish and
chips, much too much for us to eat, delicious though it was, so unfortunately
much of it got thrown away.
22nd
Dec
-
The
next morning Deb’s friend Pete had volunteered to drive us around Napier
showing is up to the view point at Bluff Hill Domain (where we saw a cruise
ship come in), and then through the Art Deco centre of town before dropping us
off at the Mission Estate where we had booked lunch for Deb’s 50th
Birthday. We had a tasting of their wonderful wines before we had another
fabulous meal with good wine out on the lawn in blazing sunshine before being
picked up by Bay Tours for our private wine tour of the region.
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Our
driver was an American and he took us first next door to Church Road (a place
Sue and I had visited many years before) where they provided us with a lovely
selection (more reds in the Hawkes Bay) in their brand new, and spectacular,
tasting hall. Then it was into Moana Park (a small vineyard specialising in low
allergen wines) where a lovely young woman plied us with tasty samples, and
finally we ended up at the much larger Sileni estate where we were introduced
to the delight of cheese with desert wine.
-
We
then returned to the house where we got ourselves prepared for Deb’s birthday
party with her friends joining us with the family (the children enchanting us all
with their adorable antics). It was a very convivial evening, enjoyed by all.
23rd
Dec
-
Travelling
back to Pukekohe we stopped at Lake Taupo, having a quick coffee in town before
driving up to the Huka Falls and having a picnic under the trees beside the
river.
-
We
arrived at mum’s place and unpacked, repacking for our stay in Howick that
evening. After a quick wash and brush up we drove out to the Howick Motor Lodge
(the cheapest accommodation and the one where we had to compromise most on
space). We visited the All Saints Church and saw the plot where dad is interred
with his parents before heading down to the Windross House at Cockle Bay for
our 20th wedding anniversary meal. Gary followed me back to the
motel to drop of my car. The Windross House is an old colonial building that
has been converted into a restaurant and was where my grandparents had their 50th
wedding meal. The beach was also where Sue and I had our wedding pictures
taken. We were joined by Gary and Catherine and family friends George and
Noreen and we had a lovely meal together. Gary later dropped us back at the
motel.
24th
Dec
-
In
the morning we drove back into Howick and had another look around the church,
buying gifts in what used to be the old Monterey Cinema opposite, before
driving down to Cosy Place where I used to live.
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We
then drove into Auckland city via the bays and waterfront parking up at the Sky Tower where we had bought tickets for Jamie and Deb to walk around the top of
the tower. We watched them (Sue nervously) from an indoor observation deck as
they walked around and afterwards they joined us for a quick drink before we
walked out in search of lunch. We strolled down Queen Street to the Ferry
Building and then on to the Degree Bar overlooking the Viaduct Basin.
-
We
returned to mum’s place where she was with her Settlers Way neighbours as they
sat around eating and drinking in their street party. Later we went out to
Harry and Anne’s for their Saddleton Road traditional Christmas gathering in
the barn where we spent an entertaining evening.
25th
Dec
-
Christmas
was spent with the family and started with Gary and Catherine coming over in
the morning. Gary cooked us breakfast on the BBQ and we opened presents and
relaxed, getting ourselves ready to go over to Catherine’s parents for dinner.
Her father Brian came over to pick us up (he also kindly arranged for a taxi
home later). We had succulent roast turkey, BBQ roasted lamb and a honey glazed
ham complete with pineapple rings and cherries. In addition we had all the
trimmings and copious puddings washed down with liberal amounts of wine
courtesy of the Pipers.
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We
returned home full of the joys of Christmas.
26th
Dec
-
Jamie
was flying to Melbourne in the afternoon so we spent the morning at the
Auckland Botanic Gardens with a picnic lunch under the trees. We then drove him
to the airport and had a couple of last drinks with him before seeing him off
on his continuing journey. He was going to spend time with friends there with
others joining them from the UK for New Years and afterwards driving down the
Ocean Road.
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We
drove out to Clevedon for an evening Meal with George and Noreen and their
family and friends.
27th
Dec
-
Back
on the road again with our second (much smaller) tour, this time around the
central North Island. We started by heading towards the Coromandel Peninsular
and just after Thames we stopped at the colourful Waiomu Beach Café which
serves some of the best muffins we have ever tasted. We sat out in the
courtyard and admired the unusual furniture (a sofa made from an old bathtub
and a spare tyre table); inside a separate cottage was a lovely collection of
local art.
-
At
Coromandel Township we went to the Driving Creek Potteries where the main
attraction is a hand built narrow gauge railway that winds its way up the mountain
to the Eyeful Tower. We hadn’t booked this and it looked like we might be
disappointed as the sign showed it being sold out all day, but we asked and
were put on a standby list and got on the very next train out.
-
Another
must stop place was the Coromandel Smoking Co. where we picked up a few bits
for lunch and ate them watching fishermen coming and going at the boat ramp.
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A
long and winding road took us over to the ocean side of the peninsula and we
briefly stopped to look at the murals painted on the town’s buildings along the
main street of Katikati.
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Our
flagging energies from spending such a long time in the car were boosted when
we were overtaken by a couple of large bikes, the latter of which sported and
unusual pillion passenger – a dog wearing snazzy blue goggles (or doggles). We
followed them for several kilometres trying to take their pictures.
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Eventually
we arrived at the holiday destination town of Mt Maunganui and found our
accommodation at the Mission Belle Motel run by a nice woman from Essex. We
unpacked and chilled out with a drink before venturing out to watch the sunset
from one of the beaches and ending up with another delicious meal, this time at
the Blue Restaurant & Bar
28th
Dec
-
In
the morning we strolled through the busy town (a cruise ship had arrived) and
down to the ocean side beach which was full of happy people playing in the surf
and on the sand.
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We
packed up the car again and headed towards Rotorua where we detoured to visit
the Buried Village of Te Wairoa with its moving display (the tree with the
sewing machine stuck in it – from the volcanic explosion – has been removed and
has been relocated in a new museum area), and the lovely walk down to the
waterfall. We had lunch here in the café before heading into town where we went
and checked our tickets for the evening’s entertainment at Te Puia, and then on
to visit the lakeside. We parked up and walked around to the pretty Saint
Faith’s Anglican Church by the lake at Ohinemutu with its etched image of
Christ on the window that appears to be walking on the lake. We were amazed by
the steam coming up through the paved street and through the drains and by the
number of helicopters and seaplanes that were sharing the pier with the old
steamer.
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Our
accommodation was at the Pohutu Lodge Motel, not particularly luxurious but it
was ideally located next to the Whakarewarewa geothermal park and only a short
walk away from Te Puia where we were going for our Maori cultural evening. The
evening started with a walk around the geothermal park where we witnessed the
geysers erupting in all their magnificence, the mud pools burping wetly, and a
stuffed Kiwi (the live Kiwi being asleep).We saw the carving and weaving halls
and then we then had a traditional challenge and welcome at the meeting house
where we were entertained by traditional dancing and singing before being led
to the plush dining room where a tremendous spread was laid out for us
including the traditional hangi food that we saw being lifted out of the heated
pits earlier. Our visit finished with a trip back to the geysers to partake in
a hot chocolate and a story while seated on naturally heated steps.
29th
Dec
-
In
the morning we had breakfast out at the colourful Fat Dog Café & Bar where
a bunch of bikers where feeding themselves up before climbing onto their huge
bikes and riding off with an ear splitting roar. The portions here were even too much for our
now well accustomed stomachs to accommodate, delicious though it was.
-
We
were travelling to a different would this morning, one populated by little folk
with hairy feet and prodigious appetites. Unfortunately the Hobbits of Hobbiton must have been indoors having their second breakfast but we still saw the
stunning village bathed in sunshine and under scorching heat. Everything looked
as if the occupants had just stepped away for a moment – the vegetable plot was
cultivated, there were props at the doorsteps to the hobbit-holes to indicate
the profession of the owner, and even the man made oak tree on the top of
Bag-End looked amazing. Our tour took us around the whole site and we ended up
at the fabulous re-created Green Dragon Inn for a refreshing drink.
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We
did not have time to linger too long as we had to get to Waitomo so that we
could complete out Middle Earth Trilogy (Te Puia, Hobbiton and Waitomo). Sue
and I had visited here many years before but since then the original entrance
burnt down and has been replaced with a much grander affair, also adventure
tourism has increased and many other caves have opened up and we were blown
away with the massive man made entrance and stunning limestone formations of
the Ruakuri caves (here we witnessed some of the black water river rafters pass
by – like white water but in the dark) The Waitomo Glowworm caves still had the
ability to amaze with the bioluminescent little worms lighting the ceilings
like the night sky, even if the caves were not as impressive as some of the
others.
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We
had a picnic stop before we climbed back into the car and headed back to mum’s
home.
30th
Dec
-
Be
now we were looking forward to a little quiet time so we did a little shopping
in Pukekohoe that had to include a stop at the Muffin Break (cheese and steak
pie – mmmm!).
-
In
the afternoon mum had arranged for a few people to come over (it was Gary’s
birthday but he didn’t want us to make a big deal out of it). I had good
friends Ian and Susan come over with the kids (now grown up young men) and we
had a lovely evening catching up and reminiscing about when we were young and
vital.
31st
Dec
-
Our
friends had asked if we could drop by at some point to catch up, but as you can
see we didn’t have much spare time available. We had a late evening check-in
for our flight and mum didn’t want to come out to the airport so we arranged to
say our farewells at home and then travel into Auckland.
-
We
drove up Mt Eden to show Deb one of the many volcanoes that make up the
Auckland skyline close up and had a dramatic view across the city before
heading over to visit Greg and Fi where Bart and Kim, Avette and Terry, Mary
and Gary, Chris, and Caro came around. We had a lovely afternoon / early
evening catching up before we headed off to airport in the evening.
-
We
thought there might be a chance of a party going on as it was New Years, but it
was quiet and empty with only a few scarce souls raising a glass as the hour
struck twelve.
Depart
Auckland 1st
We took off in the wee small hours and
had a very long day arriving in the afternoon of the same day at Heathrow
having spent more than a whole day in transit. One of our bags was the last off
the plane (someone’s has to be) so it was already going dark as we picked up
our car and headed for home. First stop was to Sue and Deb’s mum where we had a
comforting plate of ham, egg and chips before dropping Deb off at her home and
wearily making our way back to ours for a night cap and our bed.
Confined for hours on end in a car
(even a big car) was tiring (as is evidenced by the many photos of Deb and Sue
asleep) and we did find several reoccurring themes during our epic journey. ‘It
is what it is’ indicating that however much you plan you cannot accommodate for
all eventualities (but for the most part everything did come together with
surprising success). ‘On the road again’ was a perpetual phrase as we did not
linger too long anywhere as I was determined to maximise our time and see as
much as possible (Jamie was quite impressed with my spreadsheet that detailed
driving times between places and activities). ‘Wowsie’ and alternatively ‘Wowsa’
which we exclaimed at the various new picturesque vista or natural wonder we
encountered (certainly New Zealand is a very photogenic country in the
sunshine).
All in all it was a very enjoyable
holiday for everyone concerned, though it might take us a while to recover from
it.
