We have just returned from a long three week break in South Africa with some friends of ours who came from there originally and we returning to visit family and friends and to show their young daughter some of the sights.
We flew out on Virgin Airways and did not have great service. There were over seventy children on the flight and the staff had not catered for them, so we all suffered.
Our first port of call was Cape Town where we had rented a couple of cars and an
apartment in Green Point near the
Victoria & Alfred waterfront.
On the first day we went around the bay to get the iconic view back towards Table Mountain. The water looked too inviting for Yendall and Sue to resist, but they were soon back out when they felt the cold Atlantic waters. Later on we went shopping for supplies and then ventured out to the waterfront for a meal.
The next day we went
up the mountain on the cable car. We had spectacular views across Cape Town from the dizzying heights. The weather was brilliant and we walked around the top seeing cute little
dassies along with lizards, birds and other small creatures. We were very lucky with the conditions as we later heard the mountain had been closed for days, and a day or so afterwards there was the famous table cloth cloud covering it over.
After that we drove around a few of the bays.
While we were in Cape Town we also saw sea lions, penguins at the
Boulder’s Beach colony, hungry and scary baboons, and ostriches on the beach at
Cape Point. We visited the lovely
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens where we saw some amazing plants and some creepy golden orb spiders. We stopped for
smoked snoek at Hout Bay and went for a spin on the wheel back at the V&A waterfront.
After a few days we went on to the Wine Region where we stayed at a
lovely rural location which we used for a few days of touring around the Stelenbosch region visiting a few vineyards, the historic town, and admiring the stunning scenery. Vineyards we stopped at included
Simonsig,
Hartenberg where we had a superb lunch,
Delheim,
Muratie that had great port – though no chocolate today,
Spier where we visited the
Cheater Outreach and Eagle Encounter centers,
Neethlingshof, and
Fairview where they make the Goats do Roam wine and where we had great wine and cheese sampling.
We split up for the day after that as the others went to visit friends in George and we continued on to
Knysna where stopped in
a delightfully quirky place and had the most
amazing seafood meal.
In the morning we went up to the Heads and decided that this would be a great place to return to.
We met up again in
Jeffery’s Bay on one of the few rainy days of our trip but we still managed to get out and visit the world renowned surf beach and when we returned early the next morning we were rewarded with the sight of a pod of dolphins surfing alongside the human surfers.
Near Port Elizabeth we went to stay a few days at the
Addo Elephant Park and were very impressed with the site as a whole. It was our first visit to a park like this and we were not sure what we would find, but we were pleasantly surprised with the courteous and helpful staff, the comprehensive visitors facilities and the lovely accommodation, in fact we fell in love with our little cottage and could see our selves reclining on the veranda sipping cocktails as we watched the herds of animals on the horizon.
We were somewhat surprised that we were not immediately tripping over the elephants though and we were told on our first game drive, an evening one, that the rains that came the day before meant that the elephants would have retreated to the quiet valleys as they did not need to come to the waterholes to drink. We did see lots of other animals though, including kudu, zebra, Cape buffalo, antelope of various types, warthog, black back jackal and an owl.
On the morning game drive we didn’t see many different animals and we did see elephants, but they were a couple of miles away on the horizon. We also saw paw prints of a lion, but that was as close as we came to the big cats.
We were a little disappointed that we hadn’t seen the big beasts so we took a car around the pack ourselves to see if we could track them down during the day. We couldn’t, but we did see some other interesting creatures, including mere cats, a rare rhino, large snails and plenty of the rare dung beetles rolling their collected poop across the road.
Later as we sat around the swimming pool we got talking to a new arrival that had entered the park from the other entrance and had seen plenty of elephants as he drove through. We decided then when we left the next day to drive out through the park to this other exit. Luckily we did because almost as soon as we entered the park we came across the large creatures walking across the road, what a thrill, we then saw others further into the park. It was amazing how an animal so large could just seem to disappear into the undergrowth so easily.
It was a superb visit and quite the highlight, though the delay in driving through the park did add extra time to our long leg of the journey up to Kokstad, which was a particular tiring and unpleasant episode.
The long journey to Kokstad was through an area formerly known as the
Transkei and it took us through the main settlement called Mthatha during the afternoon rush hour. This area had been granted ‘independence’ by South Africa, though it seems that that may have been more for show and to provide a place for the native population to be located in while limiting the central governments responsibility for financial support and development. Hence the place today still seems to be very poor and underdeveloped and we did feel a little uncomfortable as the only white people crawling through the city centre in our shiny hire cars as the locals clambered into the back of pick-ups or squeezed into the ever present taxis.
The advantage of the long journey to Kokstad was the next days travel to
Durban was shorter and allowed us time to recover as we met Yendall’s brother’s family. We also had a chance to go down to the beach where we met Sally’s mother and had a dip in the much warmer Indian Ocean.
We stayed with Yendall’s family and met the extended clan and their friends over the next week of so and enjoyed socializing with real live South Africans. We joined in with a mixed and varied sampler of local culture that included visiting the
uShaka marine world with its fascinating aquarium built into a mock ship wreck, cocktails and beers on the
Moyo Pier, watching the
Durban Sharks beat the Wellington Hurricanes in Rugby and then later going on to buy a typical after match meal of
bunny chow and triple chip and cheese roti from
Johnny’s takeaway, taking the
SkyCar to the top of the new football stadium for a panoramic view of the city, traveling out on a boat at dawn to watch the shark net inspection and then going on to watch the
Sharks Board presentation and autopsy. We also saw Yendall’s brother perform in the
Durban Passion Play that is based on the one performed in Oberammergau, visited the
Essenwood Market, and looked around the historic centre of Durban and had a meal in a
Waxy O’Connors’s Irish Pub who are part of an international
chain.
We made several visits to the various beaches around the bay and also took trips out to the
Midmar Dam where our brai (BBQ) was extinguished by a dramatic hail storm.
Our second game park was the
Tala Game Reserve where we saw more animals including hippopotamus, lazy rhino, giraffe and herds of wildebeest. It is a lovely small park with a picturesque picnic area and a relaxed feel to it.
The last long journey was to drive from Durban to
Johannesburg where we stayed with some of their friends for the night. We only ventured out to a flash out of town shopping mall called
Sandton City to pick up some last minute gifts and have a last meal together at the
Lekgoltla restaurant in
Nelson Mandela Square (lovely setting and staff, but I don’t think I will be having ostrich poikie again) before we took the evening flight back home.
Luckily we had the Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday to recover as the flight was again hard work and we needed the rest.